There is something to do seven days a week in London but it’s usually after the infamous ‘hump day’ that the Capital really wakes up. Mayfair’s El Pirata on the other hand had its siesta early and was a buzz of Spanish authenticity on an otherwise pleasant summer Tuesday evening.
A sense of real Spain is immediate and in abundance as soon as you’re welcomed through the front door of the Spanish-looking tapas bar, from dark warm wood finishes and black and white decor, to the scent of traditional Spanish cuisine circling the restaurant.
A glance at the menu revealed an exciting but difficult task, namely due to the meticulously crafted authentic menu. With a specially selected wine from the Spanish vineyards in hand, it wasn’t long before small terracotta dishes were arriving at the table. A classic beginning of croquettes revealed a refreshingly authentic texture and flavour, one that in this modern food culture appears to have been forgotten. Uncomplicated but bursting with Iberian ham. The accompanying prawn fritters were light, and beautifully cut through with aioli and lime.
In isolation mussels and chorizo are on my list of desert island foods, so to see them married as ‘mejillones con chorizo’ was a pairing I couldn’t pass up. In short, if you can resist the urge to finish the sauce with a spoon, I commend you. Visually striking plates also hold a place in my heart which is why the Arroz negro con calamares (Squid and black rice) was a must-have. Brilliant as it was striking, the flavours were heartwarming and rich, with the squid gracefully melting away with each mouthful.
The true winner of the show however was the Iberian pork secret and I’m happy to spread this secret around. A delicate cut, mouth-watering flavour in a rich, yet perfectly paired source echoed with rosemary was a climactic end to an already memorable dining experience.
If my belly were as big as my eyes I would have fought to try the vast array of authentic dishes (of which there are over 40!), if not for the flavours but for the home-from-home service the team delivers. A claim of true authenticity often raises suspicion in a time where the term is overused but El Pirata deserves to sing it from the hills.
An all-encompassing authentic experience from start to finish that you should try for yourself.
Words by Tom Glover.