Meadow Restaurant, Ealing

The mark of a truly good restaurant, in my experience, is the ability to turn even a bad day around. On a windy, train-cancellation filled Saturday evening, I found genuine inner peace at a beautiful Ealing eatery called Meadow restaurant.

I had already travelled most of the way there when I received word that the trains from Euston had all been severely delayed or cancelled, turning a simple journey for my friend into a complete impossibility. Crestfallen but still hungry, I pressed on to do my duty. My god am I glad I persevered!

Meadow by name, and Meadow by nature. Abundant greenery on the restaurant facade and throughout the pleasingly laid-out dining area contrasts brilliantly polished brass, putting you at ease while maintaining an upmarket feel and appeal.

A burrata with peas, basil oil and watercress came first, and was an explosion of fresh, springtime tastes I can still taste (and lust after) even now. The vibrant basil oil puddled on top played beautifully with the fresh cream of the burrata. The peas were pleasingly firm, retaining their bite and freshness; this was less a dish, then a showcase of high-quality ingredients, and I loved every bite.

Next came a sliced tomato salad, though the name hardly does it justice. A beautifully ripe medley of sliced heirloom tomatoes, mixed with small chunks of peach and melon slices, highlighting the natural sweetness of the tomato. The occasional underripe green tomato, whether intentional or not, added some bite. The tomatoes were also given restrained grill char on them to add some depth. Phenomenal!

I was pleased with the starters, but the main course of 12-hour ragu absolutely blew me away. Rich, slow-cooked beef ragu on top of freshly made, perfectly taut ribbons of housemade pasta. The flavour was deep, rich, and powerful, the meat so tender as to be falling apart. A truly exemplary dish, and quite possibly the best ragu I have ever had. Ignore the surf and turf, the half chicken, all the “flashy” dishes- the pasta is where it’s at.

When it came to drinks, I threw myself into the experience and left it entirely in the hands of the friendly, knowledgeable staff. First up was the Gardeners touch- a rum-based, herb-forward cocktail served over chipped ice with, no word of a lie, an entire carrot as a garnish. Deep undertones of rum play off the fresh herbal vibrancy of the vegetable ingredients, creating a refreshing yet boozy cocktail with a truly unique presentation. More than a few heads will turn when this comes out!

Now I’m not normally a dessert sort of person, but even I was tempted by the deconstructed tiramisu. Gorgeously ripe strawberries, refreshing watermelon granita, smooth cream with white chocolate shavings and a soft, sweet biscuit base that while nowhere near traditional, managed to absorb the flavours of the dish without sacrificing structural integrity. A sprinkling of matcha powder on top was just enough to cut through the cream and the sugar without being too forward; truly a well (de)constructed dish.

As the dessert went down, my mind turned back to drinks. A coffee old fashioned, spied one table over, was immediately ordered. The only description that does it justice is that it’s the best cup of black coffee you’ve ever had! A boozy coffee base, the whiskey adds sweetness and fire to the finish, with high notes of ginger cutting through to prevent any one aspect from being too heavy.

Certain I had already abused my invite, I asked for the bill- but Meadow was not done with me yet! The wonderful manager offered me one last cocktail to finish the night- a special “end of the night” cocktail whipped up by their head bartender. God knows what it was called, but it was stunning! Gooseberry-infused vodka formed the base; it was fruity and sweet with a tart, almost cleansing aftertaste redolent of red berries that melded with the cocktail beautifully. I’m told that while the recipe is a closely guarded secret, the bartender in question won a competition with this- some homework for any booze-oriented internet sleuths out there!

Final sips slurped, I regretfully gave my thanks to the team and left my greenery-laden sanctuary. Meadow is that rarest of beasts, a truly cool restaurant that’s just as comfortable with families as date nights. I’ll be the first one to admit that Ealing is a bit of a slog at times, but food this good is worth any number of Piccadilly line stops. If you’re nearby, go tonight. If you aren’t nearby, it’s worth the trip. Or not- more incredible Italian fusion for the rest of us in the know!